36 HOURS IN SEATTLE

THE NEW YORK TIMES

The sky is often gray, the residents tend to be muted (except when cheering their teams), calm waters lap the green cityscape, but beneath its mild exterior, Seattle has always careened wildly between boom and bust. For better or worse, boom is the mode of the day. Though the tunnel project designed to give the waterfront a highway-free makeover is currently stalled, the rest of downtown is roaring with new construction and high-end repurposing of historic buildings. The food has never been better, and the traffic never worse. Fall days can be wet, but as any photographer will tell you, the city is at its loveliest when slicked with rain.

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HANDMADE CAPUNTI WITH JASON STONEBURNER

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Stoneburner: Pasta, creative flair bring Milan to Ballard